Comments on: More on the Fuji IS-Pro and infrared photography

By: Dave Kennard

Dave Kennard — Wed, 21 Dec 2011 14:20:05 +0000

In reply to Chris.

Hi Chris

If you wanted to use the camera for normal visible light B&W photography you would need to purchase a UVIR cut filter. Without the UVIR cut filter IR reflective subjects, such as grass and trees appear much brighter than normal, and the image quality degrades due to the different focusing distances of IR and visible light.

The only difference I can think of between using the IS-Pro for B&W vs. colour photography is that if you use a UVIR cut filter, then obviously you won’t get a cyan cast caused by the filter when shooting in B&W.

If you wanted to use the camera for B&W IR photography I can’t think there’d be any difference. Certainly, my colour IR photos can be converted to B&W with no problem.

Dave

By: Chris

Chris — Tue, 20 Dec 2011 11:57:21 +0000

Hi David, interesting to read about this camera, I have been looking for a DSLR for B&W Photograhy only, would you recomend this camera and woyuld it need any alterations for B&W only shooting.

By: Richard Lewis

Richard Lewis — Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:05:21 +0000

Hi
Ref: Comments regarding Marumi UVIR Cut Filter
I’m using a 72mm version on my IS Pro but have never noticed any Pink Circles on my images, in fact the filter works absoloutely fine on my Nikon 28-100 lens, could it be a lens hotspot you are experiencing?
My only observation is the Flare issue detailed in other posts, I often find flare on images that was not apparent when I took the image but understand flare on IR cameras is an issue, there is a good free IR guide on ‘Lifepixel.com’ highlights this issue.
PS: Like the lens hood idea, have you considered using some Black Card or even black plastic strip stapled?
I have used plastic milk carton bases before as flash bouncers or diffusers.
Richard

By: Dave Kennard

Dave Kennard — Mon, 02 May 2011 08:24:32 +0000

In reply to Jaye Bridger-Hurford. Hi Jaye It sounds like the Marumi UV/IR cut filter isn't cutting all the IR, and the pink circle you are seeing is an IR hot spot. If you see this page: IR and lenses, you'll see the Sigma 10-20mm is listed as having an IR hotspot problem while the Nikon 18-55mm and 70-300mm VR are listed as okay (the Tamron lens isn't listed). I'd recommend seeing if you can get hold of a B+W UVIR cut filter to try. If you can't find a shop with one in 77mm size in stock, you could try Amazon. If it doesn't work, I think you should be able to return it to them for a refund, though Amazon's returns policy does seem a little vague in this respect. Dave

By: Jaye Bridger-Hurford

Jaye Bridger-Hurford — Sun, 01 May 2011 16:34:39 +0000

hi Dave. I sure hope you can help. I’ve got a Fuji IS Pro and have recently purchased a sigma 10-20mm f4-5.6 EX DC. I’m using a Marumi UV/IR Cut 77mm filter. the problem i’m having is every time i take a picture, with the filter on, I’m getting a pink circle in the middle of the picture. I only seem to get it with the wide angle lense. I don’t get it with my Nikon 18-55mm, Tamron 55-200mm or my Nikon 70-300mm. Is there anything i can do to resolve this problem?? I also find that if i use an ND filter on any of the other lenses my images start turning pink again. please help if you can Dave? thanks very much, Jaye.

By: Dave Kennard

Dave Kennard — Sat, 23 Apr 2011 11:08:45 +0000

In reply to marseigne. Hi Marseigne To use the IS Pro as a visible light only camera (similar to s5 Pro), you will need a UV IR cut filter to remove the IR and UV light. I use the B+W 486 UV-IR cut filter with the Fuji IS Pro, this filter is available in 77mm size. You will need to use Adobe DNG Converter to convert the Fuji RAF files to DNG, then use CornerFix to remove cyan vignetting that the UV-IR cut filter causes. After this you should be able to edit the files using any RAW converter / editor that supports DNG. I use Adobe Camera RAW. Regards Dave

By: marseigne

marseigne — Sat, 23 Apr 2011 10:59:13 +0000

Hello
I am in pocession of IS PRO equivalent s5 pro fujifilm finepix has been disabled.
However I obtained photographs that have pink trends in raf as in jpg.
hardware question: what filter (tokina pro 20-35 / 77 mm) can I buy?
software question: what program buy to translate these photographs?
very cordially